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In order to get to the PCV hoses you have to remove the engine cover. Simply pull on the cover and it comes right off.
The small hose going to the valve cover has a one-way valve. This is to prevent boost from pressurizing the valve cover. The valve can become clogged or even fail under the pressure of boost, so it should be checked at every oil change to make sure it isn't leaking.

Check the valve by removing the hose from the valve cover and blowing through it. You should be able to blow through it but not suck through it. Also inspect the hose for oil buildup and replace as necessary.
Now remove the old dipstick housing.

The dipstick is easily removed and replaced by two small bolts. Just pull out the dipstick, unscrew the bolts, pull out the housing and insert the new one. Bolt it down and put the dipstick back in.
Before you can remove the canister, you need to pull off the hoses. They are usually stuck on there pretty good. I use a big screwdriver and wedge it between the intake manifold and the hose on the PCV canister. I long pry bar would also work very well. Remove the lower hose when you go under the car to remove the canister.
Removing the PCV canister is a little tricky, but not too bad. Some people have done this task from above the engine, but I think it's much easier from below.

To get access we need to move the intake manifold support bar out of the way. To do this, you have to remove the top 13mm bolt and then LOOSEN the bottom 13mm bolt. The bar will swing out of the way.

To make even more room, I disconnected the battery terminals and then removed the main alternator cable. Some people have been able to get the canister out without this step, but I did not want to break the cable trying to squeeze it through the tight opening.
You should now have access to the two 13mm bolts on the canister. Just unbolt them and then remove the canister out from the bottom. With the bar and alternator cable out of the way it slides out much easier.

If you compare the old canister with the new one, there is really only one minor difference. The hole on the top right is slightly bigger than the stock one.

Install the new canister and tighten down the bolts. Reattach the alternator cable and the support bar.
While you are under the car. replace the lower PCV hose that connects into the sump. The hose goes to the bottom hole in the canister.
That's it for under the car! Now you can let it off the jack.

Remove the metal pipe going to the intake and spray some brake cleaner into it until it comes out clean.

Connect the first loop of the PCV system into the dipstick tube and the pipe that goes to the turbo.

Notice how the arrows on the hoses are pointed. The air goes into the dipstick housing.

This was a problem with the previous version of the PCV system. The turbo would suck the oil out through the dipstick!
Now connect the second half of the new system.
Before connecting the hose to the PCV canister, you need to wrap the valve and the surrounding coolant hoses with the included insulation sheet. The hose follows the middle coolant line down the intake manifold to the PCV canister.

I'm not sure exactly why SAAB requires this valve to be heated, but that is what the recommend in the directions!
To make life easier, I disconnected the nearby vacuum line and unplugged the electrical connection right near the valve. Once the insulation is tie-wrapped on, connect this hose to the top LEFT hole in the canister.
Replace the rubber O-Ring and plastic nipple in the valve cover. Attach the big hose from the valve cover to the top RIGHT hole in the canister. Then install your new one-way valve on the little vacuum hose and connect that to the valve cover nipple.

As an additional check, split open the old hoses and inspect them for sludge. If the hoses are full of sludge, you need to look at your valve cover and inspect your oil pan! You may have sludge buildup and could be in danger of ruining your engine!

With this PCV update installed you should not have to worry about the PCV system again.

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